Exploring the South Shore of Kauai

Welcome to the Labyrinth at Momilani Kai

I headed out for a late morning walk, determined to learn the shoreline beyond the Makauwahi Cave.

The Cave itself is now closed. I hope it is preserved. It’s privately owned. Here’s my story on the hike from Shipwreck Beach to the Cave from last year, a fantastic walk.

There are some great beaches and shoreline here. But I’ve never explored the very furthest edges of this southern coast: that shore up to the cliffs of the Black Mountain chain.

So today I wanted to explore the eastern limits of the south shore. It’s not for the faint of heart. The road is a bit rough, so don’t be in a hurry. 20 mph is about right, especially over the speed bumps that occur further on. Drive your rental like you stole it, and you will do fine.

Resist the urge to park at the Gillin’s beach and keep on driving until you reach the very end of the road. This is Secret Beach.

It’s a lovely place, with very few people.

Want more solitude? Park your car and hike along the ocean edge east for about a mile. Be careful walking to close to the edge. The ocean has undermined the lava all along here.

Soon I came upon a lovely labyrinth.

I followed the path, which lead to a bower, and inside, a small altar, with offerings of coral.

I read the dedication:

It is a lovely spot.

I kept walking east. Soon the Ha’ula Beach appeared.

This coast was the site of a great slaughter in the spring of 1796. King Kamehameha was trying to conquer Kauai, the last holdout from his efforts to unite Hawaii under a single ruler. Countless obstacles kept interfering with Kamehameha’s plans.

In his first invasion attempt Kamehameha led 1200 canoes carrying 10,000 soldiers from O’ahu. It’s a distance of at least 80 miles across a treacherous channel.

They departed O’ahu at midnight, hoping for a surprise attack at sunrise, but they ran into high winds and waves halfway there. King Kamehameha ordered a retreat to Oahu. The lead canoes didn’t get the memo.

They landed here and were slaughtered. Only a few escaped. According to Andrew Doughty, author of The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook, Wizard Publications, (highly recommended), those who did escape paddled past Oahu all the way to the Big Island and never told a soul, afraid of the wrath of Kamehameha.

The second attempt at invasion by Kamehameha was foiled by an attack of cholera on his army.

Finally, in a wise move that avoided bloodshed, Kaumauali’i, last King of Kaua’i, agreed to submit to Kamehameha, with the understanding that he would rule Kaua’i until his death, under Kamehameha.

Here’s more about this great Hawaiian ruler:

I headed back, noticing the lovely wild flowers along the path.

Sida fallax, known as yellow ‘ilima, or golden mallow.

It’s a member of the hibiscus family, indigenous to the Hawaiian Archipelago, and the symbol for the island of O’ahu. According to Hawaiian religion, the flowers are associated with Laka, goddess of the hula, and the leaves with Pele’s brother, Kane-‘Apia, god of the taro planters.

‘Ilima were specifically cultivated in ancient Hawai’i for the purpose of making leis. A single lei requires a thousand of the blossoms. The flowers were used in magic as well. Mix with coconut milk and the bark from the Premna serratifolia tree for true love. I’m on the lookout for that bark!

Only Royals were permitted to wear lei made of the ‘ilima.

I watched the waves crash below, then, “BOOM!” It sounded like an air cannon going off about ten feet inland from my path on the shoreline. I investigated. A blow hole!

Soon some new friends appeared on the path and we shared our amazement at the phenomena. I was granted permission to video the effect of the blast on this lovely girl by her wonderful father.

Her dad told me about exploring this coast when he was younger, swimming into underground caves. He has seen giant white eels in the lava caves under our feet. He’s a true Hawaiian, friendly, open, and happy.

The lava has been carved by the wind, rain and ocean into some fantastic shapes here.

I walked west the length of Secret Beach, then turning back, I saw storm clouds approaching and decided to hoof it to the car, arriving safe and sound just as the tropical rain began to fall, it’s arrival heralded by a host of birds all hidden from view.

On the way back I stopped and took a picture of the warning posted at the entrance:

You want to be sure to leave before sunset here!

Thanks for traveling along~! If you enjoyed the hike please hit the like!