Juluapan = Xoloapan: God over the Water
Hike to Casa Abandonada: Meet Luis!
The native people of this region spoke Nahuatl, an ancient Aztec language that today is extinct in this particular region (Colima), although it is still spoken by 1.7 million people in Central Mexico and by some in the southwestern United States. The word Juluapan, which is the name of the peninsula and lagoon, come from this language.
Xolotl, pictured above in a modern graffiti version on Casa Abandonada, was a dog-headed god who protected the visible world from the underworld. He was the soul guide for the dead, and every night he guided the Sun through the underworld so it could rise again the next morning. His twin was Quetzalcoatl, and their mother was Chimalmā, a virgin goddess. Together the two twins represent Venus, which is both a morning star and an evening star.
A sign at the entrance to the park explains the origins of the name Juluapan. “Juluapan comes from the Náhuatl word Xoloapan, ‘Xolo’ means the god Xólotl, and ‘apan’ means above the water. So the mountain is ‘Xólotl above the water’.”
Above this sign at the park entrance is another, with an English translation. “Walking among Nature lowers stress, brings peace, health and improves our mood.”
I paid my 20 pesos to the park manager, Luis, and headed up on the shortest trail, to Casa Abandonada, an abandoned villa that was never completed. The first stop was at the Quetzalcoatl Mirador, or overlook, at an altitude of 120 meters above the Pacific.
The sign at Mirador Quetzalcoatl says “The mountain has music for those who listen.” There was no one on the trail, which is relatively easy at this point, and not too steep. I figured only crazy Yanquis like me were out and about in the noonday sun.
The trail soon split, with the right going off to the south to the Domo (peak) and the beach trail, and the easier left trail going north to Casa Abandonada. I shot this video as I approached the casa:
Another 50 yards and the entrance to Casa Abandonada was in sight. It looked truly abandoned and was deathly quiet as I entered the house. Come along on a five minute tour:
The hike down is pretty easy. The sea breeze was blowing nicely. When I got to the gatehouse I chatted a bit with Luis, the gatekeeper. He is passionate about nature and the health benefits of walking about, which sentiments I highly endorse! I hope you can feel the passion and energy in this five minute interview.
As I headed down from the park entrance I finished Episode 18 of the Fall of Civilizations podcast by Paul Cooper. It ends with a recitation of an inscription from Pharaoh Intef ‘s tomb, the Harpers’ song, to be sung at funerals. It is 4,200 years old. I thought it only fitting that my visit to Casa Abandonada end with this ancient song:
One generation passes, another stays behind.
Such has it been since the men of ancient times.
The gods of long ago rest in their pyramids,
the great and blessed likewise lie buried in their tombs.
Yet those who built great mansions, their places are no more.
What has become of them all? I have had their words retold time and again.
But where are their dwellings now?
Their walls are in ruins, and their places are no more, like something that has never been.
There is no return for them. To explain their present state of being, to say how it is with them, I cannot tell.
So follow your heart and your happiness. Conduct your affairs on earth as your heart dictates, for that day of mourning will surely come to you.
So spend your days joyfully and do not grow weary of living, for no man takes his things with him, and none who go can ever come back again.
Love the trails and points of view!