I swam up from the depths of sleep, drawn by a far-off chant, then came fully to the surface as another cantor opened up, this time seemingly just outside our window.
We are docked on the West Bank of the Nile at Esna, Egypt. As I write this it is still dark. The nearest Call to Prayer ended after a 30 minute concert, but now at least three more chanters are continuing the praise from more distant minarets. The calls to prayer will continue for more than an hour, weaving around and through each other, echoing in these early morning hours.
Last night after a lovely dinner spiced with the conversation of new friends we were entertained by a whirling dervish, an incredible and moving performance.
We have a slower pace today, a walking visit to the village market here. It should be an interesting day, and I am looking forwards to sharing the pictures and stories with you.
Our tour bus arrived back at the ship from the Valley of the Kings about 1:30 yesterday. We had just sat down for lunch on the top deck when I realized the ship was starting to slowly move away from our moorings along the bank, so I walked outside to watch the process. Once the ship had cleared the shore I returned to our table and gave my lunch order. Then I felt the engines reverse.
Were we returning?
The Brilliant Wive commented, “I think we have a Runner.”
“Runner” is the term we use for folks who are running for a departing boat. It is always fun to watch. Sometimes they make it, sometimes they don’t.
I went back out for a better view. As soon as we were close enough a brave crewman from our boat leaped the gap, scrambled up the riverbank and started sprinting.
It was then that I spotted our bus driver running towards the crewman. As the gap between them narrowed I realized our driver had something in his hand.
The color looked familiar. OMG it was my sweater! The one of alpaca wool I had purchased at a market in Quito! I loved it dearly and didn’t realize I had left it on the bus!
The intrepid crewman snatched my sweater, sprinted back to the boat and danced up an aluminum ladder that had been extended from the bow as the skilled Captain kept the big boat just off the rocks, grasping my sweater with one hand and the ladder with the other.
I returned to our table. “I’ll be right back. Nothing’s wrong” I assured the confused BW.
I arrived downstairs just as the young Egyptian crewman walked into the lobby, panting and out of breath.
“Shukron! Thank you! It’s mine! I didn’t even realize I had forgotten it!” I exclaimed, gratefully slipping him a $20 bill.
“Someone forgot their hat so the bus driver made a search. All he found was this sweater,” the Officer of the Deck offered.
I put my sweater back in our nearby room and returned to our table, where our delicious lunch was just being served, and sheepishly explained.
“Don’t you tell a soul!” exclaimed the horrified BW.
The ship was soon out in the river channel, heading up the Nile to our next adventure.
So I hereby apologize to my fellow passengers for the delay I caused, to the BW, and also to the skilled captain and crew, with my deepest thanks for salvaging my sweater.
And thanks and condolences to the poor gentleman who lost his hat and, unlike me, realized it!
While I’m at apologies, let me offer one up to you, dear readers, for the post yesterday. I had real trouble uploading it because of the limited internet as we made our way upriver. Some paragraphs got doubled up, which has never happened before. I take responsibility for that, too.
I caught and fixed the problem within an hour, but of course I can’t edit your email version which had already gone out.
To get the most current version of these posts, and for a quicker load of the pics, try reading them in the App. The App will always have the latest edited version. I love Substack. It’s free of ads and my posts will always be free of charge. My rewards are your subscriptions, reads, likes, shares and comments.
Some of you may have noticed that I have not yet written about the Temples of Karnak and Luxor. Here’s why: they are so overwhelming, so incredible, that I don’t want to rush the post. I need to curate my pictures carefully in order to accurately convey this amazing site on the East Bank, across from the Valley of the Kings. So while that post will be coming, I’m not sure when.
In the next journal article I hope to provide a list of this trip’s entries so far. (I won’t repeat the list everyday). I will continue posting daily if the internet service permits me to upload the necessary pictures.
I hope to get the post out on Queen Hatshepsut and her Temple (above) today. What a person! (She/he had tombs both in the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens, and is sometimes portrayed as a man in the temple.
The roosters have taken up the call to prayer as daylight brightens the scene.
I can now see outside more clearly. The minaret IS right outside our window! (Opening photo).
Thanks so much for traveling along! So glad you’re here!
I had to laugh at how you ended this post ... with the roosters taking up the Call to Prayers. Sometimes, I go outside in the early mornings hours, in the most silent time of the night. Then the roosters in my neighborhood will begin their concert. There is a Maestro, a deep-baritoned fellow with a robust and melodic crow. The others pale in comparison, screeching out their croaky versions that rarely get the tune right. Your cantor is the Maestro, while all the scratchy recorded versions of the Call to Prayers, which I've heard in Israel, are all the immature cockerels in my neighborhood.
It nice to see that you are having a great time even though you might be forgetful puts you in the same list with us folks back here. When the large cruise ships pull away from the dock and you're not on the ship you have to figure out how to get to the next stop. My wife and I have watched "runners" trying to get there on time. Enjoying your photos and narrative of everything.