Na Pali Coast on the Kalalau Trail: Ke’e Beach to Hanakāpī’āi Valley

Saying “Aloha Oe” to Kauai; the Kōlea (Pacific Golden-Plover) and ‘Ūlili (Wandering Tattler) are departing as well. Plover cover lover?

Our time in Kauai is coming to a close. I was fortunate to get an invitation to join this good looking crew on a hike along the famed Nāpali Coast Kalalau Trail. It’s hard to get reservations to hike this trail. Do so well in advance! Thanks guys~!

A bus picked us up at our assigned time, 9 am, and transported us from Waipa Park and Ride along the coast to Ha’ena State Park. The road here has several one lane bridges, like the Hana Road in Maui. Some spots are one lane due to construction, because of land slides. The road clings to the shoreline for much of the 7 miles.

Once you arrive at Ha’ena there is an easy 10 minute walk to Ke’e Beach, where the Kalalau Trail begins in the Nāpali. The first quarter mile of the trail is almost straight up. It takes you to a wonderful lookout spot, shown in the opening photo.

From here the trail continues another two miles to the Hanakāpī’āi Valley.

Kalalau Trail from Ke’e to Hanakāpī’āi Valley and back

We’ve posted some videos of the trail, streams and waterfalls on the YouTube channel. It’s great hike. If you go, get a good trail guide and follow it! No flip flops. Closed toe sandals if you must, but hiking shoes or, better, boots are best if you try to go as far as Hanakāpī’āi. Allow at least 3.5 hours. Total elevation gain was 629 feet one way, a distance of 2.35 miles taking just over 1 1/2 hours. (This was coming back).

By the time I returned to the beach at Ke’e I was ready for a swim. The water here is cooler than on the south beaches, and very refreshing as I washed off the red volcanic mud that had caked on my legs.

Although I haven’t seen any Kōlea (Pacific Golden-Plovers) for several days, the ‘Ūlili, or “wandering tattlers) are still here.

Here’s a video of a Ūlili working the shoreline at Ke’e Beach.

Soon the ‘Ūlili will be leaving for their nesting sites in Alaska and Canada, and we will be returning to our northern nest as well.

There’s a beautiful Hawaiian song about the ‘Ūlili.

Here are the words and the translation:

Hone ana ka leo e ‘Ūlili e
‘Ekahi manu nono ‘ae kai

Kia’s ma ka law a’o Kekaha
‘O in Kai us Lana mālie.

The voice of the ‘Ūlili is sweet
A bird that stays by the water’s edge.
Guarding the point at Kekaha
This gently flowing sea.

The translation is from a wonderful book by Jim Denny, The Birds of Kaua’i, University of Hawai’i Press, 1999:

But as I said, no Kōlea have been seen the last few days, as they have left. They’re such beautiful birds, arriving in Kauai in August, and now just departed for their breeding grounds in the Arctic.

Another great bird book published by the University of Hawai’i Press (2016) is Hawai’i’s Kōlea, by Oscar W. Johnson and Susan Scott. The cover photo above is of a male in breeding plumage just before they take off for the arctic breeding grounds:

Credit: Hawai’i’s Kōlea, supra.

The Kōlea that nest on Kauai appear to have the shortest migration route. These plovers (the word “plover” rhymes with “cover,” lover) make some of the longest migration flights of any species.

They fly the distance nonstop, covering 3000 miles (4800 kilometers) in 3-4 days! The Kōlea from Kauai nest on the western Alaska tundra, a treeless plain that blossoms with flowers, lichens, berries and shrubs, ideal for the ground-nesting plovers.

We’ve been resting here on this beautiful island just like the Kōlea and ‘Ūlili. Now it’s time to return to our nesting site. Though we are through with nesting duties, as all our chicks have hatched and flown, there are still important tasks for grandparents.

I wondered: “are there any grandparents flying to Alaska to help raise the young Ūlili?”

Perhaps not, but if so, Godspeed.

We will heed the nesting call that continues to resonate and fly home tomorrow.

Aloha Oe my friends. Thanks so much for traveling along~!